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Early today at Milk's MADE Studio, Hood by Air (headed by Shayne Oliver) premiered their Fall/Winter 2013 collection amongst a crowd of ravenous and eclectic bloggers, reporters, photographers, and editors.
Unlike the high-gloss of the shows premiering at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Hood by Air took another approach, inviting guests into the large, clean-looking arena that is the MADE studio in the Meatpacking District of NYC. The venue reflected the aura of the show -- post-modern, structural, and unconcerned with the concerns of beauty.
The show opened with an array of lasers and a large white cloud of fog that obscured the models just before they came into view on the runway.
The show was exciting, the energy palpable. The show's theatric leaning added an extra dimension of interest, and differentiated it from the ordinary runway show.
Watching it, I couldn't help but be reminded of Bernadette Corporation, which operated mostly strongly as a subculture phenomenon in the 1990s, a collective of people entering the fashion world and subverting it from the inside. Shayne Oliver borrows from the aesthetic of 1990s club and streetwear as well, with oversized, deconstructed pieces that look almost as though they are about to fall off the body, but miraculously cling, giving many of the looks the illusion of floating.
A fur hood that might otherwise conjur the idea of luxury, taken here for its own and subverted into something that exhibits strength and a unique taste.
The most striking thing about Hood by Air, though, is its conversation between street, club-kid, thumping underground and high society, and past culture.
Oliver includes accessories that might be seen on a rich woman on Park Avenue, such as a diamond earing or pearl necklace, but the piece is absorbed too by the seemingly haphazard style of everything else. When closely looked at, it becomes evident that these tokens of high society become grounding focal points for structures that are carefully planned out.
The collection involved some pieces with extremely angular arcitechture.
The collection inspires also a sense of the otherworldly, as a few of the models took on their own exterior, creature-like personas and danced, thrashed, and crawled their way down the runway.
The power of the clothing was enhanced by this idea of the near-paranormal, a unique style and attitude exhibited by those in the club scene. At the same time, many of the looks reflected inspirations of dress from ancient cultures.
Some looks included pieces of accessories from high society.
In the end, what this show and this brand really becomes about is power and self-expression without needing to convert to something from the mainstream.
[All Photos by Emily Heinz]
Including the opening day, The Salon was held for the first time at the Park Avenue Armory (643 Park Ave) from November 8 -12, 2012 providing a large range of art objects, painting, sculpture, furniture, and decorative items which met for most the objectives of the show, museum –quality works of art.
The show was organized by the New York based Sanford L. Smith & Associates and the French Syndicat National des Antiquaires. They selected 56 galleries from Paris (27), New York (14), London (six) and other cities presenting in 53 booths more about 700 art objects. All work chosen for the salon were vetted and organized into categories:
The Salon included a fund raiser for the Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club. Several panels sponsored by the SCENE magazine were offered covering respectively design value creation in real estate and through the social media as well as on the Vanderbilts bringing “French Grandeur” to America and Deconstructing Modern Design.
The breadth and quality of the Salon was astounding covering hundreds of years of art and design creations and presenting many galleries who were never in New York before. Only comparatively few decorative objects from the contemporary design period were puzzling and difficult to ascertain, yet they found their audience too. Certainly the art, genre, style and period preferences of the well clad upscale audience were readily met by the exhibits in well arranged spaces.
It would be difficult to identify a single established 20th century artist whose work was not shown. Further, this first salon was not crowded during my two visits as Armory art shows frequently are, thus allowing for undisturbed talks of exhibitors and collectors, an advantage pointed out by visitors and staff, in short, as one visitor put it, the salon was a collector’s paradise.
Apart from an overall compliment for this well managed show it is difficult to do justice to all exhibitors and the plethora of objects on view. Among my favorites were the Carpenters Workshop Gallery (London) with its astounding upside down Taj Mahal table, the unending attraction of Rene Lalique’s work mounted by the DJL Lalique gallery (Glen Cove, New York) and kindred art nouveau objects arranged by the Jason Jacques Gallery from New York.
Among the most notable pieces of furniture was DJO Bourgeois’s desk in steel and Bakelite from the Galerie Marchilhac (Paris). Their Zürich counter part, the Gallery Gmurzynska featured the suprematist PROUN portfolio of prints of which only three copies are known to exist, one held by MOMA. For the artist El Lissitzky the Russian Proun stands for 'Project for the Affirmation of the New'. Zlotowski (Paris) devoted all of its space to showcase paintings by Le Corbusier offering an amazing contrast to his style in architecture. And the German-American artist Richard Lindner had two of his eroticizing paintings on view at the Galerie Pascal Lansberg (Paris) exhibit.
As noted the work shown spanned centuries with the oldest paintings on display presented by the Paris and Geneva based De Jonckheere gallery specializing in old masters and specifically Flemish painting. The darkened exhibit space featured The Harvest painting by Pieter Brueghel, a panel by Lucas Cranach the Elder, and the magnificent “Temptation of Saint Antony in a panoramic landscape” by Jan Mandijn. At least for this writer, the picturesque landscapes, village scenes and portraits by the other masters shown in this booth were not as intriguing as Mandijn’s imagination of St. Anthony’s temptations. Following Hieronymus Bosch’ imaginary creations Mandijn demonstrates superb craftsmanship with surreal and detailed scenes. Masked people and bizarre creatures are leaving caves surrounded by strange insects, birds and other fantastic objects against the background of a seemingly peaceful landscape. What he presents transcends our imagination.
If you have missed the show you may want to visit two galleries across from the Armory on East 67th Street. At Friedman & Vallois the focus is on the French artist Rachid Khimone selecting totems and masks created over the last five years using bronze, iron, wood and mixed media. The objects evoke Africa and her traditions. Jumping into 21st century, the Lohner-Carlson Silences exhibit at the Erik Thomsen's gallery of Asian art presents Active Images 1990-20, combining the best of moving images and photographic approaches. The images are shown on a series of high resolution video panels and provide a poetic and elegant glance at seemingly normal scenes. Yet they succeed in unframing our structured visual perception of reality and moving us out of that perception box, if we look closely enough embracing a meditative patience.
You can learn more at, http://thesalonny.com/
Comic-Con 2011 held every year in San Diego is the Mecca for geeks everywhere to show the world their "geekdom". It's not uncommon to find yourself at the convention mingling with an anime character look-alike and big name celebrities at the same time, assuming you can find them in the massive crowd.
Ever since its beginning in 1970, the convention has steadily grown in attendance, topping out at over 150,000 people in 2010. Currently, the event is held in the San Diego Convention Center where it is planned to host the event until 2015. SDCC is the premier event for anything comic books, movies, TV and even video games.
Unlike the other high caliber events like E3 and CES, Comic-Con is open to the public and is enjoyed by every kind of attendee, including collectors, fan boys and the journalist elite.
The biggest spectacle on display, however, are the cosplayers: people dressed in costume as their favorite fictional characters. Some costumes take years of planning with attention to detail. Costume contests are common at display booths where the best suit often wins large prizes.
While the SDCC show floor is the main gathering point, the panels and talks are the main attraction. With lines lasting on average of 3 hours, popular panels featuring stars like Adam Sessler from G4, WWE wrestlers Triple H and Rey Mysterio, Stan Lee, Todd McFarlane and many others cover all aspects of entertainment media. Movie announcements, video game details, TV show announcements and release dates of featured comic books are discussed by industry experts and attended by regular fans.
The 2011 San Diego Comic-Con did not disappoint with numerous announcements.
The Amazing Spider-Man (2012)dir. Marc WebbAt the Sony panel, the unveiling of the new movie The Amazing Spider-Man was unexpected. A fan dressed up in Cosplay as Spider-Man went up to the stage during the movie presentation. The costume appeared to have come from the costume store next door and half-hastily put on.
As the mock Spider-Man approached the microphone, he took off the mask and revealed to the audience his true identity as Andrew Garfield, the actor portraying Spider-Man in the upcoming blockbuster movie. The presentation concluded with a teaser trailer for the movie being shot in 3D.
Mass Effect: The MovieScreen writer Mark ProtosevichGame Creator Casey HudsonMass Effect: The Movie was on topic at this year's SDCC during the Legendary Pictures panel. Both the lead screen writer and the game creator acknowledged the lackluster history of video game-based movies, and plan on creating a visual experience which should break that trend.
Protosevich mentioned that previous movie makers in the genre concentrated on visuals and action rather than the spirit of the game they were recreating. However, no additional news on the title was presented, but every gamer is looking forward to the title.
Jurassic Park 4dir. Steven SpielbergRumors of the fourth installment have been floating around the internet since Jurassic Park 3. Steven Spielberg himself confirmed JP4 with a tagline "An adventure 65 million years in the making." He hinted at a release date within 2 or 3 years but didn't share any details on cast or writing staff.
Mortal KombatThe newest edition of the classic fighting series was released with triumphant success. Since then, new characters and costumes were released to the gaming public. The fourth and final new character was announced at SDCC as the nightmare himself, Freddy Krueger, makes his appearance in the game. He will be available for download on August 9, 2011 with 400 Microsoft points or $4.99 on the PlayStation Network.
PuddlePuddle is a physics based puzzle game where the player controls the tilt of the world in order to get liquids through the level. It's almost like looking into an ant farm, tilting it to get water to travel through all the different crevices throughout. For either the Xbox or PlayStation, control of the world is done through use of the Xbox analog sticks or by tilting the Sony DualShock 3 controller. The goal is to get the maximum about of liquid to the end of a stage in the shortest amount of time.
LeedmeesAlso shown at E3 2011, Leadmees by Konami is basically Lemmings for the Kinect. Using the Kinect camera, players are to position themselves in a way so that small characters on the screen go from one end of the level to the other, all while ensuring their safety. Players will find themselves contorting their bodies in order to save these cute little creatures.
The Walking Dead: The Game Based on the popular comic book collection and the recent television series, Telltale Games' The Walking Dead: The Game is expected to live up to its predecessor. The game focuses on Lee Everett and takes place during the events of the comics. A moral choice system is implemented in this Telltale title and adds hours of replay value to the experience. No release date has been set.
SidewayThink about how awesome Mario was at the 2D platform genre. Now think about putting that game in 3D. No, not all in 3D, but just the environment.
That game would be Sideway, a 2D side scrolling adventure set in a three-dimensional world. You play as Nox, a graffiti artist who one day finds himself as the artwork itself. Jumping from wall to wall, Nox must find his way out of the walls and back to normal life. The game will retail for $10 on the PlayStation Network later this year.
CM Punk crashes Comic-ConAt the WWE panel featuring WWE legends Bret Hart, Triple H and Rey Mysterio, CM Punk made an impromptu appearance with the WWE title belt in hand. For those of you not familiar with the saga behind the new wrestler, CM Punk officially is not part of the WWE since the Pay-Per-View Money in the Bank in which CM Punk won his title. His contract ended that day and he hasn't been seen in the wrestling world since then. Mobs of people surrounded the infamous wrestler, taking pictures and videos with him.
After demanding the microphone, CM Punk took the opportunity to give a long speech mentioning WWE president Vince McMahon's tournament for the next WWE Champion. Fans and skeptics aren't sure whether CM Punk's appearance in the event means he will return to the WWE or whether this is his final hurrah as he fades out of the spotlight.
Green Lantern Animated SeriesFollowing up on the movie release of Green Lantern, four clips were shown at this year's SDCC at a panel featuring executive producer Bruce Timm, producer Sam Register, Giancarlo Volpe and Jim Krieg.
Audience questions didn't lead to very many answers about the series, but the topic of Red Lanterns was brought up. For the series, the Red Lanterns will appear more humanoid to make them kid-friendly rather than sprawling beasts best known in the comics. The ultimate goal is to create a long-lasting series with many inspired spin-offs.
Tron: UprisingAt the Kick Buttowski panel sponsored by Disney XD, concept art and animation test footage for Tron: Uprising was revealed. The series takes place before the movie Tron: Legacy. Actor Elijah Wood voices the protagonist Beck raising to become the next Tron. The CGI and music is similar to the latest movie with similar feel to its soundtrack, crafted by electronic group Daft Punk. The series is set to launch next year with 10 micro-episodes in early 2012.
The San Diego Comic-Con is held every year in at the San Diego Convention Center.
For more information, go to http://www.comic-con.org
For those addicted to reading, Book Expo America is a cross between Wonderland and an obstacle course. If one can bypass the enormous crowds, fight through rabid fans bent on getting the latest advanced reader copies of their favorite read and fans loaded down with over a hundred pounds of books stuffed into tote bags, one can have a chance to meet and interact with the stars of the literary world. For me as an aspring author and book addict, it was sheer paradise.
From the show stopping show runners like Charlaine Harris, who generously encouraged me to keep writing, to the wonderful editors, sales people and volunteers who generously talked to an overly enthusiastic young writer who had far too many questions.
Even waiting on long lines to get autographs from personal heroes like animal specialist Temple Grandin and vampire author sensation Richelle Mead was a chance to connect with fellow fans. I chatted about Holocaust education with a brilliant young high school student from Maryland, discussed Christian theology with a handsome young salesman who was kind enough to watch my bulging book bags, and chatted with Laura Joh Rowland, one of the authors who inspired me to write.
As this is my second Book Expo, I had already mastered the unspoken survival rules. Pick events clearly, avoid all but the most yearned for big names, arrive at all signings thirty minutes early and take free samples judicially, remembering that you have to carry them home.
Most importantly, look outside your genre and the big publishers. There are a lot of new and independent voices being featured and many are incredible. Special recommendations to the Mystery Writers of America book in the 4400s, an amazing staff make sure you get recommendations suited for you.
Tomorrow, highlights include Bill Willingham of Fables fame and Mira Grant of the Newsflesh saga, both doing in-booth signings. I’m counting the hours.
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