Rollin’ Down To Raleigh

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Parent Category: Travel Info

Category: Travel Feature

Published on Friday, 12 February 2010 21:44

Written by Lloyd Carroll

If you haven’t been there, it is easy to have an erroneous image of North Carolina’s capital, Raleigh. While there are still plenty of downtown mom-and-pop stores, the city is a far cry from the fictitious Mayberry of the 1960s TV classic, The Andy Griffith Show.

Raleigh is one of the fastest growing cities in the country and has weathered the recession quite well. One resident described the city as “tees, trees, and Ph.Ds” because of the plentiful golf courses, the tall pines that line the city, and the scholars who live here because of both the number of universities in the area (Duke, University of North Carolina and North Carolina State).

If one needs additional proof that Raleigh is anything but a hayseed town, it is only one of 14 American cities that has its own repertory theater, ballet, symphony and opera companies; all of which perform at the refurbished Raleigh Memorial Auditorium.

City officials take understandable pride in referring to Raleigh as “the Smithsonian of the South” for its three major museums: the North Carolina Museum of History, the North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences, and the North Carolina Museum of Art. You can easily spend a full day in each and there is no admission charge.

The North Carolina Museum of History has diverse collections, to say the least. The exhibition on piracy through the ages, with particular attention paid to the state’s own 18th century legendary buccaneer, Blackbeard (real name: Edward Teach), has drawn large crowds. The second floor of the museum is home to the North Carolina Sports Hall of Fame. Among the familiar names are NASCAR legends Dale Earnhardt and Richard Petty, baseball greats Hoyt Wilhelm, Gaylord Perry and Jim “Catfish” Hunter, and basketball stars Brad Dougherty and Buck Williams. Conspicuously missing however is Wilmington, NC native and UNC star Michael Jordan. Sports Hall of Fame officials insist that Jordan has to attend an induction banquet and he has so far refused to make the time.

Dinosaurs took a particular liking to North Carolina during the Jurassic age. The fossil remains of numerous types of dinosaurs are on display at the North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences.

The North Carolina Museum of Art has sizable collections of American and European art from a wide array of periods as evidenced by paintings from Raphael, Peter Paul Rubens, Claude Monet, Jasper Johns and Georgia O’Keeffe to name a few.

Raleigh not only pleases art buffs but architectural aficionados as well. Its Oakwood section located just east of downtown is renowned for its numerous Victorian homes. While it is not exactly Forest Lawn, the Oakwood Cemetery is the final resting place for such notables as Senator Jesse Helms and famed college basketball coach and New York native Jimmy Valvano.

While Raleigh may be 21st century cosmopolitan in many ways, when it comes to dining it is still very traditional Old South. North Carolinians love their barbecue and if you have a hankering for ribs, brisket and BBQ chicken, there is no better place than The Pit Restaurant. It should be noted that North Carolina barbecue differs from the more familiar Memphis and Texas barbecue because vinegar is applied to the meats instead of sauces. If you want a tasty (though admittedly not very healthy) Southern-style breakfast, try Big Ed’s City Market where bacon, biscuits, and grits are served all day.  

Of course Raleigh has numerous restaurants and an increasing number of ethnic dining spots. If you want to have a sample dish from the city’s best eateries, I recommend the Taste of Carolina Gourmet Food Tour.

If you go to Raleigh in the summer be sure to catch a Carolina Mudcats game (the Cincinnati Reds’ Southern League affiliate) at beautiful Five County Stadium located in Zebulon, just a few miles outside of Raleigh. The Cattails Restaurant located on top of the stadium down the first base side is a luxury restaurant that would very much fit in at either Citi Field or Yankee Stadium. For $30 you can enjoy a buffet that features ribeye steak, Tilapia or grouper, grilled chicken, as well as salads and pasta dishes. Naturally, you couldn’t get that deal at either of our new stadiums.

Getting around in Raleigh is fairly easy even without a car. The “R” Line is a free bus that takes you around downtown and to the hip Glenwood South district that it is home to numerous boutiques as well as the lion’s share of Raleigh’s nightlife. You can also take the Raleigh Rickshaw pedicab whose knowledgeable drivers will tell you such fun trivia as where President Andrew Johnson was born and where Elvis Presley performed in town.

The area’s most luxurious hotel is the Umstead which is located in the Raleigh suburb of Cary. Its grounds, which include countless tall and fragrant Carolina pines, are spectacular. Another good choice is the Renaissance in the upscale North Hills neighborhood.

It takes only a little more than an hour to get to Raleigh by air from LaGuardia or Kennedy and there is frequent service from Delta, American, USAir and JetBlue.

the North Carolina Museum of History

the North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences

the North Carolina Museum of Art

Big Ed’s City Market

Five County Stadium

The Cattails Restaurant

The Umstead

The Renaissance

Raleigh Visitors Bureau
(800) 849-8499 or on the web go to: www.visitraleigh.com

Taking The Road To Tampa

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Parent Category: Travel Info

Category: Travel Feature

Published on Friday, 12 February 2010 21:34

Written by Lloyd Carroll

Tampa is often overlooked by potential Florida vacationers because it lacks Miami’s glitz and is squarely in the shadow of Orlando, an hour drive east, when traffic moves on I-4. That is a shame because Tampa is far more relaxing to visit than the aforementioned Sunshine State neighbors and there's plenty to see and do here.

Way before Disney or Universal ever thought about placing a theme park in Florida, there was Busch Gardens. The attraction which put Tampa on the map is still going strong 50 years later. Busch Gardens is an interesting amalgam of zoological park, amusement park, and country fair. It has done a great job in showcasing endangered African primates and allowing them to breed, but what makes Busch Gardens famous is its not-for-the-faint-of-heart roller coasters, the Scorpion and SkeiKra, a 90-degree vertical drop ride that is almost as scary to watch as it is to ride. There are also plenty of musical revues presented throughout the day including guest acts from the past as Herman’s Hermits, Davy Jones, Chubby Checker and the Fifth Dimension.

While Busch Gardens is certainly worthy of a visit, a far less costly place to view wildlife is the Lowry Park Zoo, located just a few miles north of Busch on I-275, that is home to a large orangutan collection, as well as endangered species as the shoebill stork, and such sadly dwindling Florida natives as the red wolf, panther, and bobcat. Lowry Park is also one of the few zoos where visitors can feed any of the three giraffes. Arguably the most important work done by the zoo is that it operates as a trauma center for Florida’s largest aquatic mammal, the manatee. On a lighter note, a guilty pleasure that should be enjoyed is a cupcake at the zoo’s Sweet Shop.

Tampa’s other animal sanctuary is the Florida Aquarium located in the burgeoning Channelside district. The Florida Aquarium is not in the league, of say, the New York Aquarium or the National Aquarium in Baltimore since there are no whales or dolphins on view, but there are plenty of fish, stingrays, small sharks and turtles that are indigenous to the Sunshine State.

Channelside has Tampa’s newest tourist area, thanks not only to the presence of the Florida Aquarium but also for the airy Tampa Bay History Center which examines the city from its earliest to Seminole inhabitants to the present day metropolis that it has become.

Also drawing both locals and out-of-towners to the area is Channelside Bay Plaza, a shopping and entertainment complex whose anchor is Splitsville, an upscale bowling alley in the mold of Manhattan's Lucky Strike and Bowlmor, where you can eat gourmet meals at the lane as you try to knock down the pins.

Tampa’s most frequented neighborhood is historic Ybor City where over a century ago, Cuban emigres opened cigar factories. Today, hand-rolled cigars are still big business as countless tobacco shops line Seventh Avenue, but Ybor City has also become a center for Tampa nightlife. Centro Ybor, an entertainment complex that was modeled after Miami’s Coco Walk, is home to the city’s lone comedy club, the Improv, as well as to one of the largest multiplex movie theaters you’ll find outside of Times Square, and of course, numerous restaurants. An electric streetcar line connects Ybor City and Channelside.

Yankees fans know that their team holds spring training at Steinbrenner Field in Tampa. Tickets for the spring exhibition games are hard but not impossible to come by. Yankees fans can also watch the team’s minor leaguers practice for free. If you come to Tampa after spring training is over, you can still enjoy baseball at Steinbrenner Field as it is home to the Tampa Yankees of the Florida State League.

There is no shortage of excellent restaurants in Tampa that do not cost an arm and a leg. Hattricks is a downtown pub whose name is derived from the hockey term “hat trick” which is used when a player scores three goals in a game. Hattricks is a short walk from the St. Petersburg Times Forum where the NHL’s Lightning play (there are $8 tickets available for most games). I heartily recommend the grouper, a fish caught in the nearby Gulf waters.

While in Ybor City, I heartily recommend La Tropicana if you want inexpensive yet tasty Cuban cuisine, as well as the Green Iguana, a popular sports pub with a Key West theme. You can’t go wrong with any of their burgers and their conch chowder is not to be missed.

Tampa’s most famous restaurant is the touristy and overpriced Bern’s Steakhouse. A far better fine dining bet is Pelagia Trattoria located in Tampa’s premier shopping center, the International Mall. Executive chef Fabrizio Schenardi hails from Turin, Italy, but spent time in Sunnyside where he met his wife. Just as Queens is diverse, so is his menu. As you would expect, there a lot of Italian and Mediterranean options but his filet mignon is every bit as delicious as you would find at Bern’s.

You’ll find lodging in all price ranges in Tampa. The Tampa Renaissance and the Grand Hyatt are located near the Tampa Airport. Both hotels offer good value, have terrific views of the sunset over Tampa Bay, and are close to the Gulf beaches in St. Petersburg and Clearwater. If you want to be closer to the action, the Hampton Inn in Ybor City is a fine choice.

JetBlue has plenty of inexpensive daily flights to Tampa International from both JFK and LaGuardia.

For more information, call 800-44TAMPA or visit www.visittampabay.com

Cancun Sellout

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Parent Category: Travel Info

Category: Travel Feature

Published on Saturday, 16 January 2010 22:11

Written by Eric Lurio

The first time I went to the Xel-ha Eco Park, it wasn’t there. Back in 1969 or ’70, I was just a kid getting myself ready for puberty and my parents and grandparents on my father’s side had taken my two brothers and I to an almost completely unknown island called Cozumel, just of the east coast of Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula.

From our hotel, which presumably isn’t there anymore, one could see the mainland, so near the end of our visit, my parents made arrangements to take a boat over. It wasn’t large boat, it didn’t have a cabin, but had ropes for passengers to hold on for dear life on  one of the of the roughest sea journey’s I’ve ever been on.

Finally, after what seemed to be many hours of tossing and turning, we got there. A delightful bay in front of a water-filled cave called a cenote. It was cool and fresh and perfect for getting off the sweat and salt before going off to explore the mysterious interior. We didn’t find much. A couple of tiny temples built by the ancient Maya and a few sea turtle carcasses, one of which gave it’s skull to as a souvenir. The trip back was even more harrowing, with the pitch and roll of the boat threatening to capsize the tiny craft.

When we got back to dry land, my mother commented: “ This is just like those articles in the New Yorker.” It was indeed.

We went back to the following year, only this time we flew to the Yucatan from Cozumel. There were no airports of note in the territory of Quintiana Roo back then, so we had to fly to Merida, the capitol of Yucatan State, a colonial city far to the west of the   peninsula.

From there we drove south to Uxmal and the east to Chichen Itza, both built by a lost civilization that was both fascinating and mysterious. The guides told us stories of peaceful utopia made up of people who were fascinated by time and sports. The cities had been mysteriously abandoned well before the Spanish arrived, but their descendents lived on still, and in fact the signs had a third language besides English and Spanish… Mayan.

We climbed the fabled pyramids while Mom worried about us breaking our necks. It was a boy’s own adventure, even though we had to go with our parents….

Meanwhile, in Mexico City, very rich men, looked covetously at the virgin paradise that was Quintiana Roo, and in particular a group of sandbars surrounding a picturesque lagoon somewhat to the north of Cozumel. Their plan: Turn it into a world-class resort called Cancun.

Flash-forward a third of a century: There I am on the internet deleting spam from my email reader. There’s another one. The title bar advertises a free trip to Cancun. I like replying to these things sometimes, and I asked how much this “free trip” cost. I’d been invited to go for free before and they always seem to charge several hundred bucks in addition to the time-share pitch.

The reply came back with a plaintive: “it is free!!!!!!”. She was from the PR firm that had the Cancun tourist board account. I talked to some friends and they were more skeptical than I. So I called the Mexican embassy in Washington to check these guys out.

They were legit! Sonofabitch! I immediately sent them a “sign me up immediately!!!” email reply. This was a promotional press junket. I’d been hoping to be invited for these for years. All those year of doing movie reviews for almost nothing had finally paid off. What made it even better was that that the theme of this “fam [for familiarization] trip was archeology and I’ve been a big pyramid fan for years.

I’m going to be a sell-out Coool!

The agenda was pretty filling. From our base in Cancun, we would take all the archeological-type day trips one could take within a space of four days. No probs, I’ve done this lots of times.

Cancun is in Mexico, but it’s not OF Mexico, or at least not the Hotel Zone, the part everyone thinks is Cancun. It’s Las Vegas on the Caribbean. The HZ looks something like this: /_7, with the top bar and most of the diagonal littered with hotels one after another. Big hotels, expensive hotels, all of which have a beach and a huge swimming pool. The HZ is the myth of the place, the home of eternal spring break, where the parties last forever and the booze flows like water.

I’d been there before and couldn’t afford the place, so I spent the first night of my previous trip at the CREA Atencion de la Juvenad, arguably the WORST youth hostel on the face of the Earth. This monstrosity is in the HZ and has a nice beach. But the inside looks like it was supposed to be a prisoner of war camp or a prison and while I was there, I think I was the only guest. You had to practically beg for service.

I checked out and went over to Cancun proper, and Hostelling International has a place which is actually pretty good. Downtown is Mexico at it’s best. The area in downtown Cancun, (not downtown HZ, which is something else entirely), is full of shops and restaurants, where you can get some fantastic local food. This is a real city.

But I wasn’t going to stay in Downtown, I was going to stay in the HZ, at a place called Villas Tacul Boutique Hotel & Marina, which is a bunch of bungalows right there on the beach and air conditioning so powerful you almost need a sweater. Just the thing for Cancun in August.

The people on the junket were almost all travel writers, the singular exception being one lady who was doing seminars on singles’ travel for older women or something like that. Most of them were there because expense accounts aren’t always available, and keeping travel guides updated is an expensive business. This was a nicer bunch than I should have expected. They were all extremely experienced at this sort of thing, and were professionally proficient enough to questing for the lost world of the Maya.

How the Maya lost their world was for centuries a mystery. In recent years thanks to the cracking of their writing system and good old fashioned spade-work, we know that these peaceful philosopher/astronomers were in fact a bunch of warlike, power-hungry bastards who destroyed the environment so badly the common people gave up on civilization at least twice.

The glory of the Maya was from the 400s AD to around 930, when the whole artifice collapsed in a heap. This is called the “Classical” period. The Toltecs invaded from the north sometime later and helped start a “post-classical” civilization. This collapsed around 90 years before Columbus. There were a couple of cities left when the Conquistadors arrived in the 1520s. But if you’re at all interested in the subject you should have known this by now. One should always do their homework before leaving, if only a back issue of “Maxim” magazine’s spring break issue. But….

If you’re on the lazy side, Maya ruins aren’t that difficult to find. There was a town right there on the HZ during the “Decadent Postclassical period,” which is what the archeologists call the time period right before and during the Spanish conquest. It’s not all that big, but the ruins are quite picturesque and “El Rey” as it is called is good place to contemplate the fate of mankind while recovering from a night of hard partying.

But if you actually want to see the “real thing,” you have to go out and find it. There are lots of kiosks and storefronts in the downtown HZ area around the convention center, which will take you on a day trip to Chichen Izta, the great Postclassical city of the second millennium. This is where you want to go to look at a real, pyramid. “El Castillio” is the second most famous one in all Mexico and the reconstruction is almost perfect [they left one of the stairways as they found it]. The rest of the ruins are in a greater state of disrepair, and that’s all to the good, there’s a huge number of them, in fact, one can spend several days and not see it all...

That’s why they have quite a few hotels in the area. Far more than when I was a kid. The Mayaland Hotel, which has been there since the 1930s, has been joined by dozens of smaller and cheaper residences. What’s interesting is that the Mayaland owns the land on which Chichen Itza sits but not the ruins themselves. The Mexican government does things like that.

A few dozen miles east of Chichen is Ek Balam. At first, it’s not nearly as impressive. The ball court and the other buildings aren’t that big and there aren’t that many which have been excavated with as much care. That is except for the pyramid, which doesn’t exactly look like a pyramid, but more of a perverse office building. About half way up the grand stairway, there’s a grass roof, which protects something really special, a huge stucco frieze that looks like a pagan parody of the interior of St. Peter’s basilica in the Vatican. Warriors and priests flank a giant snake head while a large pile of rubble has been preserved in order to keep the whole thing from collapsing in a heap.

At the top of the pyramid one can see Chichen and the ruins of Coba in the distance. It cannot but impress.

South of Cancun are Coba and Tullum, the last Mayan city.

Coba is for the most part unreconstructed. This is the way most of the great Maya cities were found, piles of rubble among the trees. There are some major excavations going on but nobody will tell you exactly where. Archeologists generally hate tourists with a passion and they don’t want to be disturbed. The pyramids that are open to the public are pretty impressive and a bit on the dangerous side, but you  can rent bikes or tricycle-rickshaws and go from one group of ruins to the other underneath a canopy of trees. Really quite lovely.

Tulum on the other hand, is not. They’ve done a good job here. The city was still in good working order when the first reconnaissance missions arrived from Cuba in the 1510s. Compared to most of the other ruins in the area, this is brand spanking new! There’s also a beach, something you can’t really find anywhere else besides maybe El Rey.

Tullum is about as far south as one can go for a day trip from Cancun. There are other sites, but for that you have to stay down there and go on the next day. From Tulum, it’s actually possible to get all the way to Florez in Guatemala, but that takes an entire day (and I mean by getting up at 4:30 in the morning!) If you’ve got the time, it’s worth the effort, Tikal, Copan in Honduras and Palenque in the Mexican State of Chiapas are astounding. But generally people only can afford a week or so.

And, dammit it’s the Caribbean, where being in the area without going for a swim would be a crime. If you’re staying in the Mexican part of Cancun, there’s always the public beach in the southern part of the HZ, but then there are a couple of theme parks between Cancun and Tulum. They’re called Xcaret [the ‘X’ pronounced ‘ix’] and Xel-ha [the ‘X’ pronounced ‘sh’].

Xel-ha has changed a great deal since I was first there in 1968.

There’s a restaurant there now, as well as changing rooms and a beach, boardwalks and helpful signs to show you the cultural and “enhanced” natural landmarks. The birds and the fish are real, and some of the parrots, too. But they don’t have a floor show, and what’s Cancun without a friggen’ floor show?

For that there’s Xcaret.

It’s far the more “disney-fied” of the two. They have restaurants [which serve great food], a slow motion flume ride, and picturesque actors in Mayan costume, as well as professional “Ulama de Cadera,” players, imported from the state of Sinola, where the ancient ball game is still played,  who play a few matches in specially built stadium as well as during the aforementioned floorshow.
 
 The floorshow is an educational extravaganza, resembling a those 4th of July specials that they show on PBS every year. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. It’s actually very entertaining. The audience, who were mostly Mexicans [Cancun is filled with vacationers from Mexico City in the last week of August and the CVB had a hell of a time finding us rooms] sang along and had a real blast.

The official price for these two is expensive. Xcaret is almost a hundred bucks US per adult. But the dozens of tourist kiosks to be found in downtown HZ generally have discounts that range from 25 to 60%, so it pays to go shopping.

The junket lasted five days. That’s not really enough to do it right, but then again, it was a fam trip. The price was right and I wanna do another one.