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KEY WEST, Florida Keys — For more than 30 years, internationally renowned playwright Tennessee Williams lived in a modest cottage on a quiet Key West street. The centennial anniversary of Williams’ March 26 birth is currently being celebrated in the island city, with events honoring his literary prowess, passion for painting and enjoyment of the Key West lifestyle.
I used to write reviews and conduct interviews with bands when I was in high school. I had a fanzine and did a blog for a little bit but stopped and took it down. I stopped -- the music wasn't there. But in this past decade, there has been a musical renaissance for people brave enough to siphon out the best sounds of basically every decade leading up to it, from every influence and every country. So I write again.
Now is the time to see the bands who have resonance and leave you feeling like you might have experienced some feelings. All these bands come through Williamsburg. Brooklyn NYC. So when the little grandkids ask you about Brooklyn in 2010, make sure you've taken the L train to Bedford Avenue and are versed on these venues -- the places where you can see and hear the future of music in the 21st century.
Germany has been a divided country, split by very different ideologies and economies. Though such a partition ended over 20 years ago, unification brought a new set of problems, not least of which were a dual set of orchestral organizations. That's an asset for the musically inclined for there is a plethora of companies hailing from each side of the destroyed wall. While the richness of Berlin's classical music scene has caused funding headaches, many of these organizations have lasted into the 21 century despite negative predictions.
So Berlin is still a major center of Western Europe's vibrant classical music life. And who pops into mind when thinking of classical music heavyweights? Beethoven, Mozart, Brahms, Wagner, Strauss, among the foremost famous, all share the German language as their native tongue. And many avant gardists who shaped modern music such as Amold Schoenberg and Alban Berg also hailed from Western Europe's largest country.
German stars such as violinist Anne Sophie Mutter or the whole Berliner Philhamzonisches Orchester are internationally established and front a classical music scene unmatched by most cities. For such music fans, the German capital yields a rich tapestry of musical opportunities and performances that take place there daily.
As the principal locations for this music, the Philharmonie building (in super modernistic Potsdamer Platz) and Konzerthaus (in classic Gendamzenmarkt in Mine) offer gorgeous interior spaces befitting the music produced therein. These spots couldn't be more contrasting and represent the bi-polar nature of Deutschland's capital.
Conservative and progressive trends vie with each other reflecting the country's turbulent, dynamic past and the East/West dichotomy --·still latent in Berlin -- lies in some of the repertoire performed there. The West Berlin audiences seem more conditioned to avant garde styles while the Eastern audiences have more traditional appetites.
One evening, the Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester performed both the stolid Robert Schumann's Manfred overture and 3rd Symphony as well as the archly avant garde Wolfgang Rihm's Frau Stimme which garnered wildly diverse audience reactions. One set grumbled,while another contingent seemed in heaven. Besides these two great orchestras east/west (BSO/BPO) and their operatic counterparts, there are the two radio orchestras from each side, which enjoy a continuing presence there--the DSO served the West, while the RFO performed for the East.
Berliner Philhannonisches Orchester
The Philharmonie is home to the BPO (also known as the Philhamtoniker--the business entity) which has recorded with the 20th century's finest conductors and soloists -- including R. Strauss, I. Stravinsky, P. Hindemith, W. Lutoslawski and H. W. Henze (under the composers' direction). At the advent of new technologies -- during the years with famed conductor Herbert von Karajan -- the BPO made the first stereophonic orchestral production (the complete Beethoven symphonies in '61 and '62) and first CD, Carmen (Deutsche Grammophon), in '83.
The Philharmoniker has received innumerable awards including Grammys in '78, '92, and '97. Classical met contemporary again when The BPO played on the heavy rocking Scorpions' latest CD. Now helmed by Sir Simon Rattle, it remains one of the top three orchestras in the world. On one evening I visited there, the BPO played Mendelssohn which yielded an astounding Thomas Zehetmayr violin solo displaying such articulate bowing skills as to be apparent to even the most novice audience member.
Berlin Philharmonic Hall
Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1
10785 Berlin
+49 (030) 254 88-999
www.berliner-philharmoniker.de
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Through the 20th century's second half, the DSO, under the guidance of four conductors -- Ferenc Fricsay, Lorin Maazel, Riccardo Chailly and Vladimir Askenazy -- has molded a unique repertoire with an ear to both past tradition and present stirrings. Askenazy's baton was passed to the orchestra's chief conductor/artistic director, Kent Nagano who passed it to the orchestra's current principal conductor, Ingo Metzmacher, effective with the 2007-2008 season.
The orchestra's 53 year old aesthetic by introducing new repertoire much of it to be performed at the Philharmonie. Such was the night when it performed Mussorgsky's Pictures at an Exhibition using the piano as lead instrument and focal point, interpolating it with the standard orchestral arrangements. This performance illuminated such a well-known piece in a very different light and merited kudos for the Orchestra -- that's what makes it a world-class orchestra.
Konzerthausorchester Berlin
Founded in '52, the Berlin Symphony Orchestra (Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester) was Communist East Berlin's main outlet of classical music . The Leningrad Philharmonic Artistic Director Kurt Sanderling took the BSO's helm in 1960 guiding it with a conservative style until '77. Giinther Herbig followed his tenure and it then was led by Claus Peter Flor. Since reunification, it was first headed by Michael Schonwandt, then Eliahu Inbal. Since 2006, Lothar Zagrosek has been the orchestra's chief conductor. After German reunification in 1989, the orchestra was threatened with dissolution, but subscriber action maintained the ensemble. The orchestra acquired its current name in 2006. While firmly rooted in tradition, the BSO can stray from the expected course with unexpected results.
Rundfunk-symphonieOrchester Berlin
Of the two radio orchestras which enjoy a continuing presence in Berlin, the RFO -- originally formed in 1923-- served as DDR radio's classical voice. Since the wall has come down, it continues performing on radio and in Konzerthaus under the direction of conductor Rafael Friihbeck de Burgos. An affiliate company to the RFO, The Rundfunkchor Berlin expresses the romantic classical ideal shared with the RFO.
Symphonieorchester Berlin
With offices in Charlottenburg, the Berliner Symphoniker (SOB) started in 1966 on an independent course from the state-sponsored ensemble created when the wall went up and musicians left. Under conductor Lier Shambadal's leadership, the SOB provides concert series held at both the Philhamzonie and Konzerthaus as well as performances at schools and in public spaces.
Deutsche Oper Berlin
During the '50s, the Stadtische Oper (the company became Deutsche Oper Berlin in '61) opened its doors of tradition to new works. First performances and world premieres by Menotti, Malipiero, Zillig, Henze, Britten and others took their place in the repertoire. The Deutsche Oper Berlin has showcased in its own modemistic building in Charlottenberg younger directors such as Werner Reich and Giinter Roth as well as older masters like Carl Ebert. During its 36 years, the Deutsche Oper Berlin has brought out some 60 musical world premieres.
Staats Oper Unter Den Linden
Under famed conductor Daniel Barenboim's helm, the State Opera was East Berlin's premier Opera company. Situated in Mitte (which directly translated as "center"), and performing at Konzerthaus or in its own building, this institution is truly at the core of Berlin's contemporary cultural life. The Opera reflects the same grand traditions it has cultivated since its inception. When Giacomo Meyerbeer's Robert Le Diable was performed with much bombast, big voices and hard-to-comprehend story, the drama (with some nudity) seemed dense and oblique. It reveled in its very complexity and demonstrated the company's mastery of such productions.
Staatsoper Unter den Linden
Unter den Linden
7
10117 Berlin
+49 30 20 35 40
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www.staatsoper-berlin.org
Komische Oper Berlin
A unique cultural center ever since its founding in '47 by operatic stage director Waiter Felsenstein, the renowned Komische Oper Berlin was created as a place where opera and theater would blend together under one roof. Through the current directors and Conductor Yakov Kreizberg, the Opera became a workshop to fuse music and dramatic interpretation. That the productions are solely in the German vernacular has brought positive response from native audiences. The Oper's dance company--founded in '66 and run by British choreographer Richard Wherlock -- is an international respected ensemble presenting both ballet and contemporary dance.
The Musikinstrumanten Museum
In addition to these institutions, this Museum on Tiergartenstrasse near the Philhamzonie is a treasure trove of the most beautiful musical instruments in the world. With all these organizations present, Berlin offers a rich tableau for any classical music fan.
I got off the bus at 57th Street and 6th Avenue and walked up through the Central Park snowscape.
Faerie time.
Little kids with their brilliantly colored toboggans or inverted large plastic frisbees in cherry, lime green, turquoise and violet flopped down the tiniest slopes, shrilly screaming with delight. People were running the track, as per usual, enclosed in their huffing and timing.
Many teams of families and friends were building snowmen, and I saw at least three snow caves, which we always advise people to build in the chilly North, if they are caught in a snowstorm or are lost in the woods and there is available snow.
I watched four energetic bunches of people cavorting on tamped-down slopes; some of the adults were sitting on the plastic garbage-can covers so they looked behind their tots.